Tuesday, 14 April 2009

Dunhuang to Turpan (Tulufun)

The train to Turpan and/or Urumqi DOES NOT leave from Dunhuang but rather from Liu Yuan which is two hours bus ride away. Buses depart at 1230, 1400, 1600 and so on 20Yuan. Sorry but I don't know the schedule for those traveling west to east but from observation there were mini buses waiting for arriving trains presumably to get return fares. Where it not for Zhang I would have been completely unaware of this fact and would have made my way to the sparkling new train station on the outskirts of Dunhuang. Sitting in Charley Jong's cafe when another traveler dropped in and happened to mention he was catching the train to Urumqi the next day, he was also not aware that he had to go to Liu Yuan and was very grateful for the info, even if he did take a bit of convincing.
Arriving in Turpan (Tulufun) is little better with the train station while being marked on the schedules and your ticket as Tulufun it's actually at Daheyan 55km from Turpan. My train arrives at 0530 and the first shuttle bus into Turpan is at 0900. Plenty of taxis service the route into Turpan for 20Y per person but they will always try to get four passengers and you may be waiting around for the next train to arrive if the quota isn't reached. I got lucky and was offered a lift by a well healed American tourist called Ray who had a private car with driver and guide waiting for him.
Stayed in the Turpan Guesthouse which despite it's name is a 3 star hotel. Singles start at 180Y but ask for a travelers bed and it's only 50Y per bed in a three bed dorm with ensuite, being the off season I have the room to myself.
Decided to hire a guide and driver for the day to take me to all of the main attractions around Turpan, Bezeklik Caves, Tuyoq Valley (Turpan Grand Canyon) Tuyoq Village, past flaming mountain, the Karez irrigation system, the ruins of Yarkhota and lastly the Emin Mosque and Minaret. Unless you are on an organised group tour, a taxi or private car and guide is the only way to get around the sites. Cost of car and driver was 280Y with the attractions costing from 21 to 38Y. To be honest it is all a bit disappointing with the only site of any real interest to me being the ruins of Yarkhota. The caves have been so plundered by archeologists or damaged by Muslims that there is little of interest to see other than the spectacular setting they are in.
The city itself holds little attraction so only staying here one night and then off to Kashgar (Kashi) by overnight train.

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